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Haiti, five years later: Piles of rubble, politics and yet…perseverance

At the commemoration, Haitian President Michel Martelly recalled how the country came together after the massive disaster.  Photos by Tequila Minsky
At the commemoration, Haitian President Michel Martelly recalled how the country came together after the massive disaster. Photos by Tequila Minsky

BY TEQUILA MINSKY    |  On the morning of Mon., Jan. 12, Haitian government officials, foreign ambassadors and top police officials commemorated the five-year anniversary of the Haitian earthquake at the site where thousands had been buried in a mass grave near Titanyen, 18 miles north of Port-au-Prince. The earthquake killed 230,000 people and injured thousands more.

Following speakers from Haiti’s Catholic, Protestant and Vodou religious communities, President Michel Martelly spoke. During the proceedings, covered extensively by Haitian media, Martelly reminded the public how, in the earthquake’s immediate aftermath, everyone had come together; there was no Lavalas or Makout (political affiliations) or black or white; Haitians, sometimes using nothing but bare hands and digging through the rubble of collapsed buildings, helped “a neighbor, a colleague, someone whom we had never met before.”

Erol Josue, a Vodou priest, called on all to reflect on the country as he recounted its history. Vodou had been blamed for the earthquake. He recalled that, in fact, it was Vodou that had set in motion the revolution.

“Give Haiti a chance. Put aside all of your personal problems,’’ he said. “We lost a lot of people, even people who came to visit us…we lost hope.”

Following remarks, the president and his wife placed wreaths on a memorial that had been constructed just days before.

Outside the ceremony, two small groups of Haitians demonstrated for and against the current government.

Other intimate local commemorations took place on Jan. 12, including one held at a memorial area at the environmental education center Martissant Park.

A Mass took place at a church adjacent to the main cathedral that collapsed during the earthquake. There was an observance at the Bureau of Ethnology where Vodou priestesses performed a ceremony to bless those killed.

Passing the five-year mark begs the question: How is the recovery going? Has there been progress?

“Some, not enough,” responded sociologist Claude Roumain.

Haitian police at the commemoration ceremony.
Haitian police at the commemoration ceremony.

In the city center and along major roads, long, painted metal barrier fences cover vacant blocks where tons of rubble has been removed. But, there are still the scarred remains of collapsed private structures — homes, clinics or schools throughout Port-au-Prince. Rubble removal is costly.

How Haiti is doing is in the eye of the beholder.

One Haitian resident talks about the solar street lamps that illuminate Delmas, a major artery. Another points out the difficulty of life in nearby neighborhoods.

A young Haitian media professional commented how Delmas is being improved: “They’re building an expressway.”

President Martelly and his wife, Sophia, receiving wreaths to lay at the memorial.
President Martelly and his wife, Sophia, receiving wreaths to lay at the memorial.

An overpass at one of the boulevard’s most congested intersections is under construction, an infrastructure improvement by the Department of Public Works.

Another resident mentioned improvements like new hospital construction, giving the example of the showcase “state-of-the-art hospital” built with international aid by Partners in Health in the town of Mirelbelais.

Traveling around Port-au-Prince one can see a few construction cranes, a new sight in this city, where before the earthquake there was only one building higher than four stories. The multistory Ministry of Trade building is under construction.

The Haitian flag flew at half-mast by the boulder memorial, marking the mass grave where thousands of the earthquake’s victims are buried.
The Haitian flag flew at half-mast by the boulder memorial, marking the mass grave where thousands of the earthquake’s victims are buried.

Not far from that building site, fronting the grounds of the damaged French Embassy on Rue Capois, a billboard displays the rendering for the new modern embassy.

Businessman Gilbert Assad observed that security is better; there are less kidnappings.

Another Haitian resident didn’t disagree but added the caveat, “Don’t walk around at night!”

Gilbert also noted that there’s more state investment in the tourism industry — particularly the (hotly debated) development of Isle la Vache, a luxury tourist destination, including an international airport.

“They’re building a port to accommodate construction equipment and fuel for the planes,” he added. Gilbert said he’s witnessed technical assistance for the fishermen of the island.

The public parks and plazas that served as a refuge for tens of thousands in the first years after the earthquake have been returned to their use as recreational and public space. People no longer live there. But, more than 80,000 still live in tents or temporary structures out of from eyeshot.

The thousands that lived for three or four years in those tents — some relocated more than once — are trying to rebuild their lives while countless jobs have disappeared. Life in Haiti was not easy before the earthquake and is still a struggle.

Former Prime Minister Michele Pierre-Louis added her perspective.

“Sixty to 70 percent of the relief and recovery funds went to humanitarian causes,” she said. “Very little went into public construction. And in Haiti there’s a problem with lack of access to credit, which makes it hard for individuals to rebuild.”

She noted that middle-class people were affected too; people built and financed homes over years and they collapsed in 36 seconds.

It’s difficult to quantify progress and recovery.

“Things look normal,” said Alex, a guide and driver, as people scurried around in their daily activities in Petionville. An upscale “suburb,” the area is filled with cafes and restaurants, yoga studios, and at least three new Western-style hotels.

“You don’t see the misery that goes on behind closed doors,” he said, noting how gas taxes have gone up and that there are taxes on everything, including selling a chicken or a goat.

Nikelson Pierre-Louis (no relation to Michele Pierre-Louis) works in communication for the micro-credit organization Fonkoze. He was critical of some new targeted government programs, such as a small monthly stipends for students attending state universities or for very poor women.

“That’s not what Haiti needs,” he said. “We really want programs that can benefit everybody.”

Five years later, a destroyed theater in downtown Port-au-Prince still awaits reconstruction.
Five years later, a destroyed theater in downtown Port-au-Prince still awaits reconstruction.

Then he rattled off the areas of schools, hospitals, security and safety, and particularly the environment, which he said are in need of programs that will strengthen society.

What really was on everybody’s mind this anniversary date of the earthquake, however, was politics. On Sun., Jan. 11, at midnight before the earthquake anniversary, one-third of the Senate’s term expired (two years ago, another third had expired), leaving the Senate with no quorum. At midnight the House of Deputies term also expired. This means that the president can rule by decree, which he is now in position to do.

In spite of international pressure, no elections had been organized, and during the preceding weeks, demonstrators from the opposition took to the streets.

Two weeks ago, Prime Minister Laurent Lamonthe, from this president’s administration, was forced out. A new prime minister, Evans Paul, has been selected, and on Sunday he announced his new cabinet of ministers, keeping nine of the 20 former ministers. Yet there is no sitting government to ratify either this prime minister or his selections.

“It seems this government is not interested in elections,” observed one Haitian resident.

Meanwhile, the president blames a “dysfunctional Parliament.”

Outside the commemoration ceremony for Haitian earthquake victims, a pro-Martelly demonstrator held up a framed election poster. Others protested against the president.   Photo by TEQUILA MINSKY
Outside the commemoration ceremony for Haitian earthquake victims, a pro-Martelly demonstrator held up a framed election poster. Others protested against the president. Photo by TEQUILA MINSKY

So, five years after the earthquake, life continues to be very hard for most Haitians, recovery is long in the making and politics are at an impasse.

Meanwhile, amid all the struggles, on Sunday nights, the streets of downtown Port-au-Prince and Petionville are filled with raucous merrymakers in a time-honored tradition of lively pre-Carnival celebrations.